Pile – Like Fleece but warmer and softer
September 01, 2023
2 min read
What is pile? Pile is a type of fleece and is often called a teddy jacket. Warm and soft, pile is famous for its cozy, sherling look, but there’s more to the technology than just style.
Helly Hansen invented pile over 60 years ago, and the technology has continued to evolve over time. Get to know the surprisingly technical and anything-but-ordinary pile.
Shop fleece and pile
The first innovation, Fiberpile
In 1961, Helly Hansen created the ideal breathable midlayer: Fiberpile. At first glance, Fiberpile looked like fleece, but it was actually a sophisticated technology with one of the highest warmth-to-weight ratios available. Because it maintained its thermal qualities when wet, it was a favorite with lumberjacks in Scandinavia.
Why did this midlayer keep people so warm? The properties of the original Fiberpile were better than typical fleece. The open structure was breathable and had a higher loft. Therefore, it trapped air for insulation. Because there was a relatively great distance between the fibers, it was easier to blow air through Fiberpile. Therefore, it breathed better than the original fleece. When you put something on top of Fiberpile, it kept you warmer . . . it was the ideal midlayer, as it remains to this day.
Pile vs standard fleece
What is the difference between pile and fleece? Pile has a different fiber structure that makes it warmer than fleece. But because of its looser structure, it’s less wind-resistant. Below is a more detailed view of the difference between pile and fleece.
Pile insulates better than most fleece. Pile is knitted to simulate animal fur with the fibers vertically oriented. Therefore pile provides a larger volume of air for fabric thickness, effectively 5 mm (0.2 inch), and hence a higher insulation-to-weight ratio.
Pile structure is open, so it provides very good ventilation too; consequently, it has proven to be a preferred material in high-energy activities in the cold (for instance, lumberjacks engaged in high physical work at cold temperatures).
Fleece holds less air than a pile structure with the same weight. It is made using a regular terry-loop knit which is brushed to trap air,
Fleece provides more wind resistance and has a denser structure, but permits less ventilation or air permeability. This might be an advantage or a disadvantage depending on the activity and wind chill factor
Both pile and fleece can be used underneath a jacket shell fabric if wind chill protection is needed. This is important to keep in mind when layering because neither pile nor fleece will provide much wind protection
Both types of fabrics provide high breathability or low water vapor resistance because these fabrics are typically made of synthetic fibers. Consequently, moisture can be released from the insulation layer so that the insulating capacity is maintained.
From workwear to cabin favorites
Since 1961, midlayers have expanded to countless different materials, but Fiberpile, (today’s version simply called “pile”), remains one of the warmest and coziest around. Originating with lumberjacks, today’s workers still love pile, and pile jackets are still best-sellers within our workwear line. Beyond its technical qualities, it might just be the lumberjack look that makes it an all-time favorite. Or maybe everybody loves pile because it’s just so warm and soft.
Shop fleece and pile
May 15, 2025 3 min read
Canada Ocean Racing – Be Water Positive Team partners with Helly Hansen
Helly Hansen partners with Canada Ocean Racing as Official Clothing Supplier for The Ocean Race. Learn more here.
May 14, 2025 4 min read
SailGP 2025 New York City: A must-watch sailing spectacle
Experience the thrill of SailGP 2025! Don’t miss New York’s iconic stopover on June 7-8 with high-speed sailing, stunning views, and world-class competition.
April 22, 2025 6 min read
RNLI Mayday Fundraising Partnership
We're working with the RNLI to raise funds to keep brave lifesavers kitted and trained to deal with emergencies.
April 11, 2025 4 min read
The Vendée Globe 2024 – raising the bar
Wrapping up The Vendée Globe 2024 – The human stories behind the challenge.